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Here are the knots we have gone over:

The Figure of Eight Knot

Figure 8 Knot Figure 8 Knot Figure 8 Knot Figure 8 Knot

Bowline

How to tie the Bowline:
Bowline Bowline Bowline Bowline

Figure-Eight Loop or Figure-Eight on a Bight or Flemish Loop

How to tie the Figure-Eight Loop:

Figure of 8 Loop Figure of 8 Loop Figure of 8 Loop Figure of 8 Loop

To tie this knot, you simply double the rope and then tie a basic Figure-Eight Knot. In Figure 4, the loop is dressed with a Double Overhand Knot.

Bowline on the Bight

How to Tie the Bowline on the Bight
Bowline on a Bight Bowline on a Bight Bowline on a Bight Bowline on a Bight Bowline on a Bight Bowline on a Bight Bowline on a Bight

  1. First double the rope to create a "bight" in the rope (an open loop). Then create a small loop in the bight (the doubled rope) just like you would for a basic Bowline, and bring the end of the bight through the small loop. This creates two big loops which hangs below the knot.
  2. Now open up the end of the bight a little bit and bring it back down over the two main loops, and then continue bringing the end of the bight around behind the two main loops and up to the other side of the small initial loop.
  3. Dress and set the knot.

Double Figure-Eight Loop

Remaining Breaking Strength = 82%
This knot is sometimes used as a rope method of bringing two anchor points down to one, but has not been superseded by the use of slings.

How to Tie the Double Figure of 8 Loop
Bowline on a Bight Double Figure of 8 Loop Double Figure of 8 Loop Double Figure of 8 Loop Double Figure of 8 Loop Double Figure of 8 Loop

  1. Start with a "slipped" Figure-Eight Loop, which creates two loops where there would normally have been only one loop.
  2. Then you slightly open up the end of the "bight", the doubled rope, and pass it all the way around the two main loops and over the knot.
  3. Dress and set the knot

Figure Eight Follow Through

If you are a beginner climber and can only remember one knot, let it be this one. I'd be very surprised if any climber did not know this knot. Among other uses, it's very popular as a "tie in" for attaching the climbing rope to your harness. With that in mind, follow these steps to "tie in" with the Figure Eight knot:
Step 1 (Click To Enlarge)Step 2 (Click To Enlarge)Step 3 (Click To Enlarge)Step 4 (Click To Enlarge)
Step 1: Form a single figure eight in the end of the rope and feed the tail through your harness. Some harnesses require that you feed the rope through certain straps. When tying in, I like to feed rope through the same harness straps that the belay loop occupies (not pictured), others prefer to use the belay loop (as pictured). Still others prefer to tie into a steel locking carabiner, or two aluminium locking carabiners, gates reversed, which have been clipped into the appropriate harness straps. There are pros & cons. Consult your harness manual for the recommended tie in point.

Steps 2 & 3: Rethread the figure eight, following the same path as the first. Pull the knot tight (though some climbers prefer to leave it a little loose to absorb force from a fall). Make sure you have enough tail, as the knot will slip a bit when loaded. Check the knot by counting "two", "two" & "two", for the three visible doubled strands. Ensure they each are lying flat and not crossing over themselves.

Step 4: An optional step. If you find yourself with too much tail, or are paranoid about the figure eight slipping, tie a stopper knot with the remaining tail. 

It is recommended that you check your partner's tie in knot, and get them to check yours before climbing.

Here are some rock climbing clips:

Tannin (about 1min.)

If you need to learn one knot, then it should be the Figure of Eight knot. There are generally two methods to use the Figure of Eight Knot. The first method is called the Figure of Eight Loop and is used when a piece of equipment is clipped into the loop for example attaching a rope to an anchor point.

Remaining Breaking Strenght = 67%
The Bowline has been called "the King of Knots" and it is used around the world in one form or another. However, the Bowline is prone to loosening up when there is no load on it (especially in some synthetic ropes), which increases the possibility of it coming undone or distorting. In addition, the breaking strength of this knot as much as 40% (very high, meaning that it reduces the strength of the rope heavily). Nevertheless the bowline can be used for a wide range of jobs, from securing the string before tying a parcel, to outdoor pursuits such as climbing.

Remaining Breaking Strenght = 80%
People who are not comfortable with the basic Bowline often prefer the Figure-Eight Loop. The Figure-Eight Loop is generally considered to be 10-15% stronger than the basic Bowline. This knot is easy to remember how to tie, it is easy to tie, and it is generally considered to be strong and secure. However, this knot has some disadvantages. For one thing, dressing the knot properly is not always a quick thing to do. If the knot is not properly dressed, then it will weaken the rope more than you might realize.

Remaining Breaking Strenght = 60%
This is a double-loop variation on the basic Bowline.This knot has a long track record of use in rescue situations, so it is considered by many sailors and rescue workers to be a strong enough knot to be used when lives are at stake.

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